Frida Kahlo: Bold and Beautiful Soul

A Sunday excursion to the MFA in Boston was beyond my expectations. The artist Frida Kahlo (1907-1954) avidly collected Mexican Folk art. An exhibit featuring this art and some of Frida’s clothing is at the MFA until June 19th.

Frida used unique items to create her persona in clothing. She often mixed the traditional tribal clothing pieces with Victorian pieces. Frida was not afraid to use bold and bright colors in her clothing. The same can be said of her life choices, a marriage to Diego Rivera the artist 29 years her senior, as well as the colors she chose to use in her paintings. The unique tidbit about many of her self portraits is her use of clothing that she had in her own closet. She often changed the color of the clothing to work with the painting, but not the style.

All personal items of Freda Kahlo and Diego Rivera were locked in their home inside a bathroom for 50 years. It was a time capsule of clothing, letters, corsets, medicines and photographs. This revelation of the items in the Blue House bathroom added a new layer to Kahlo’s complexity.

An outfit found in the locked bathroom. It belonged to Frida Kahlo.

A talk by Marta Turek, a textile and Mexican tribal expert, was held at the MFA this past Sunday. Knowing the topic of textiles was my love I attended the talk. WOW! Marta was amazing. She was also there when the bathroom door was unlocked! Marta went into details of the items of clothing that were discovered in the bathroom and worn by Frida. Above is a Tehuana dress made in Tehuantepec, Oaxaca, Mexico. May of the outfits could be found in photographs taken of Frida while wearing them. Amazing!

A huilpil worn by Frida and made in Oaxaca, Mexico

Frida often wore huilpil as blouses with a Victorian style skirt that had a lace applied tot eh bottom of the skirt. The huipil above is hand-loomed cotton. It shows pride in the local textile production with the embroidered words “Mexican Republic”.

Frida also wore shawls or rebozo, like the one pictured below, as a coat. This was made on a backstrap loom. Classic rebozo are made of cotton and silk . She had a large collection of rebozo and she can be seen in many photographs wearing a shawl for warmth.

Rebozo similar to one Frida would have worn

Frida was a force to be reckoned with. Her clothing was chosen to convey a specific feeling when she was photographed. She always appeared tall and proud. Only a one photo of Freda was found in more relaxed pose and clothing.

Her patronage of tribal merchants brought a spotlight to the rural community and helped to provide income to crafts people. Today many of the embroidery and weaving crafts are dying. Those still producing these items are looking carefully for artists to learn the skill and replace them.. I am up for it! Anyone else?

Collecting the obsolete

When Ulla-Stina Wikander of Sweden goes to a flea market, she has a mission. Used and worn out embroidery pieces. She cuts these peices apart to create her own artwork. The oboslete, the forgotten and deemed useless things are what drive her passion.

Rotary telephone covered in flea market find embroidery

Ulla-Stina combines everyday household items that women would be surrounded by and gives them a new life. She began this work 10 years ago after having built a large collection of embroideries with different motiifs. Her first object that she covered was a 1970’s vacuum. When the vacuum was placed on display, viewers experienced recognition, humor and an appreciation of the beauty of both the embroidery and the object.

Bellet shoes

Notice the care with which thUlla-Stins dresses each object. She wants to pay respect to the craft of embroidery. “My items become artifacts froma bygone era, disguised, dressed and camouflaged.”

The beauty and uniquness of her work is inspirational. The time involved to make each item perfect and stylized are enormous. Sharing this unique art is heartwarming. A hand stitching feat of beauty!

Taking an office chair to a whole new level!

Ulla-Stina Wiakander’s work can be seen and purchased at Mobilia Art Gallery in Cambridge, MA.

Sidonia's Thread

Windham textile museum was the site of this historic and triumphant exhibit of a woman forced to immigrate to the USA after surviving three concentration camps during WWII. Sidonia Perlstein was placed in Auschwitz, Dachau and Bergen Belsen camps in 1944 until the camps were liberated in 1945.

How dd Sidonia manage to survive after hurting her leg? Sewing! This skill took Sidonia off the hard labor lines and into a more refined work load of sewing and mending. After four year’s of living in the Bergen Displaced Persons camp, where her daughter Hanna was born, Sidonia decided to immigrate to the USA and settled in Springfield, MA. Being a single parent, Sidonia had to find a way to make a living. She used her sewing skills to open her own design business. She achieved her dream of fame and recognition.

Clothing made by Sidonia using her daughter Hanna as the model

Hanna was Sidonia’s model and has written a book of the journey that her mother traveled to become a success in the US. Sidonia’s dressmaking skills drew customers from far beyond the Springfield, MA neighborhood. Sidonia continued to design and sew until she turned 90 in 2000.

Sidonia is a role model to women every where! I encourage you to read the book Sidonia’s Thread written by Hanna Perlstein Marcus. It is a wonderful tribute to her mother.

Hanna and her mother Sidonia

A love affair with metal and textile

Mobilia Gallery, Cambridge, MA on a sunny spring day in April. A group of Boston MFA curators and textiles lovers converge on this gallery. Artist Hanne Behrens has flown in from Denmark to share her artwork. It was a love affair in the making. Woven metal! Yes, a Hanne is a goldsmith that has practiced her craft for years. She has created textiles out of metal.

Here is a picture of how it is done. Held in a vice, the metal is folded over left to fight (every other) and a cylindrical piece of metal is then threaded through. The textile metal then comes out in a long straight piece that Hanne molds into different shapes. The artistry and jewelry is beyond imaginably beautiful.

Hanne’s passion for her work is evident. She is continuously challenging herself with new methods and creations. Her newest method is knitting metal. The colors are bold and striking.

Knit metal

Working form her farm in Denmark, Hanne quest is to pass on her techniques. She currently has an apprentice working with her two days a week. Hanne’s next goal is to write a book that outlines her methods and ideas.

Thank you Hanne for sharing your passion. It was amazing to meet you!

Hanne Behrens and Julie Wood
Yes, that is an original pin Hanne created and is wearing. Woven gold and a found shell from Spain!

Hanne’s collection at Mobilia Gallery of both woven and knit designs in earrings and pins.

Ubuhle Women: Art that Creates Independence

Thousands of glass beads + fabric + amazingly talented women=Ubuhle women art work from South Africa. These women use beads in place of a paint brush. Most art pieces take an average of one year to make. The word “Ubuhle” means shimmering beauty. A step into the new exhibit at the Currier Museum of Art in Manchester, NH and I was surrounded by the shimmering beauty and the beautiful souls of the artists behind the art work.

Each piece has a truly unique style and celebrates life and the challenges that come with life. Some women are widows and others have friends and family members that have been lost to HIV/Aids. In order to survive and provide for their families this family of artists was developed. The women and children all live together on a farm and use the traditional beadwork their ancestors passed down adapting it to create the “canvas” panels.

Art work for sale at the Currier gift shop

The empowerment of the women living in this community, with their leader Bev Gibson, was the resounding voice I heard and keep hearing after walking away from this exhibition. I felt an overwhelming sense of exuberance for the South African women. Although life may be difficult, art has helped them overcome so many situations. There is a sense of gratitude that the women share. This is a take away after seeing the exhibit. Fabric, beads and love are a powerful combination.

The back of the beaded fabric canvas.

Thank you to the Smithsonian Anacostia Community Museum for creating the exhibit and placing the works on display and an organized tour.

LuAnn Nigara Live

Excellence is a Decision…LuAnn Nigara

….And requires a strategic plan followed by a support system that rocks.  Well I found more of my support system at the LuAnn Live event this weekend.  I sit here writing on the last day of this conference having experienced two days of jam packed Amen moments. 

Need I say more?

Owning a business is both challenging and amazing.  Thankfully I have a passion for what I do.  I am able to get up every day with a smile knowing that I have a business that is thriving and allows me an avenue to use my talents. Talent does only get you so far, the rest is pure grit and determination! 

The panelists at the LuAnn Live conference had words of wisdom that will help me improve a myriad of aspects in my business.  I pride myself on continuing education.  This education allows my business to stand apart from others.  It also gives me a sense of the path I am following, outline the goals that I want to achieve and the clarity to set the goals and conquer them.

The rock star!

I have big goals for my business this year.  Create a larger revenue stream, tackle five full home projects and find peeps that get just as energized about textiles as I do are the big umbrella goals for my 2019.  (Oh and throw in a 5K in November.)  My plan has been set and I have made the decision to be excellent as I execute this plan.  Thank you to LuAnn and all the co-authors of her book “A Well Designed Business”-The Power Talk Friday Experts.  You all rocked it!

To the Moon and Back

I have thought of stepping on the moon, but never thought I would make it through the low gravity training. Thankfully I found a way to visit the moon without any physical prep. Whew!

Moon fabric out of Yorkshire, England, a mill that creates amazing wool fabrics and products for clients, was started in 1835. Can you believe it! They now have a collection of 36 looms, four additions and started furnishing the home dec market only 12 years ago.

Moon is the biggest employer in West Yorkshire. Employing over 220 people in the small town. It’s specialty is plaid. Yes plaid! My favorite fabric. They fabricate their textiles using wool from New Zealand and South Africa. The Shetland wool is from New Zealand and the Merino wool originates in South Africa. I learned that the warmer the country where the sheep live, the finer the wool and that the smaller wool fibers create a softer wool.

Moon has changed business styles over the years, first manufacturing their own fabrics, then providing coop space to local weavers, producing only military fabric during WWI and WWII and then fabrics for fashion houses prior to the addition of home dec fabrics.

Bright contemporary colors

Color-oh my! The colors of Moon wool are amazing. Contemporary colors for some clientele and a Heritage collection for more refined tastes.

A more refined color palette

Although the weaving process is defined by a numerous amount of steps. the end product is out of this world gorgeous! I may not have physically stepped foot on the Moon, but the introduction to Abraham Moon, the founder of the textile mill, and the textiles that the mill still creates has taken me on a out of this world adventure.

Warp and Weft in progress

More on the weaving at Portfiber in Portland. I learned and wove at the same time. The terms shuttle, mostly used to describe when packing a car with loads of teenagers and taking them from one place to another, is also used for the tool that takes the wool from one side of the loom to the other. The wooden shuttle had less drama but did produce enthusiastic participants.

Pendleton wool used to create the rug weaving

Color choices for the rug inspired the final design. Given that Portland is on the seashore, blues were the immediate choice. Left, right, left, right…..progress! Laughs and a few mistakes. All part of the learning process. How long could the fun last? All day! Learning to pass the filled shuttle with just the right force so it would get all the way through the loom but not half way across the room seemed like it should have been easy. Well not for this girl. I was never good at sports…who knew that sports skills would transfer to weaving? I made it through without causing too much damage to the workshop. I may be asked for a damage deposit on a second visit.

Wool selections

The fun did have to end at some point. The loom was low on warp threads. After only four hours of weaving the rug was complete. Record time! Next time I will bring a stop watch to see if I can increase my speed. I hear that is what athletes try to do as they practice. After cutting the warp thread and the rug off the loom…yikes in so many ways….and fancy tying on each end of the rug it was finished. Now all that was left to do was admire. And here we have the finished rug….you be the judge of the results. I say not bad for a newbie. I can’t wait for the next adventure!

Finished 2’ x 4’ wool rug

The Art scene in Portland, ME

Color, pop and sweet ideas abound in the new hip Portland that has come to being over the last few years.   I had the chance to experience all of this and meet cool creative people.  I made a new friend at Portfiber, a weaving studio, with the owner Casey Ryder.  The experience was colorful and rejuvenating.  My excitement at seeing an entire wall of hand dyed wool would have made my husband weep from embarrassment.  (Insert a smiley face here.)

Hand dyed wool ready to be spun. A rainbow of options.

Why did I travel to Portland?  Well, I did this to work a loom and hand weave a rug in one day.  Yes, that’s right a rug made of Pendleton wool salvages.  Fortunately the loom was pre strung so all I had to do was hop up onto the bench seat and use the pedals like a piano player to move the warp yarns up and down.  I managed this despite not being able to touch the floor!  I even took my shoes off to feel the pedals like a true weaver. I think observers would know my novice ability level in no time.

Having way too much fun with Renee Rucci of Renee Rucci Design. I am holding a shuttle to weave the weft threads through.

Despite this, after only a few hours I was gratified at seeing the beginnings of a rug.  The hues of blacks and blues were looking perfect. This gave me encouragement to continue with the help of my fellow novice weaver, Renee. A few pointers came from the instructors along the way. It may have been our commentary on our progress or the laughter emanating from our side of the room that would clue them in to when we would need a rescue and help with our technique.

I have to say that this day at Portfiber gave me a sense of accomplishment and new appreciation for weavers and their craft. See if you can resist checking out the portfiber.com website and take a make a visit the fiber arts studio and try your hand at weaving.

Box of salvage wool to choose from

If these artifacts could talk.....

Sarah Lincoln, does that last name sound familiar?  It should she was a cousin of Abraham.  Several of her linens were donated to the Hingham Historical Society.  These linens date back to 1815.  The collection holds bed linens, pillow cases and towels. 

Bed linens were made of flat sheets.  (No fitted sheets then-made for easier folding).  Each sheet has hemming at the top and bottom, but the selvages were left in tact and used in replacement of side hems.  The sheets also have a small “H” tag sewn to the corner.  There is debate as to what the letter means.  Could it mean Hingham or if it is turned over it does resemble and “L” which could stand for the Lincoln last name. 

Another familiar name is Hancock.  I was able to see the wedding socks of Dorothy Quincy Hancock that she used on her wedding to John Hancock.  These socks had been passed down in the family to each new bride.  The bride wore the socks on their wedding day and then passed them onto another bride.  The socks were of white silk with beautiful cut lace work.  Only a tiny mend at the toe.  A piece of her dress lives with the socks. Her dress was green with a gold brocade pattern.  I am sure she looked stunning. 

Before leaving the historical society, I asked Michael if he had a favorite piece in the collection.  He responded by mentioning swords that were used in the Battle of Yorktown, a Civil War medical case and portraits of Hingham residents that were cut and shot at because the residents themselves had already gone into hiding prior to the British search.  He could not pin down one article, he enjoys the artifacts and most importantly the stories that come with them.

Hingham and its abolitionist movement

Quilts, quilts and more quilts.  The Hingham Historical Society has an endless collection of quilts.  The are very fortunate to own several abolitionist movement quilts.  Marches were held in Hingham to protest the use of slaves and Hingham was very active.  Abolitionists would also meet in Hingham in secret at  a place called “Tranquility Grove” to discuss the movement and steps that the members wanted to take to protest.

The quilts I viewed had muslin backing and very little batting if any between its front and back layers.  It did have a tremendous amount of hand stitching!

One quilt made by Mary Hersey Lincoln of Hingham was made specifically for and anti-slavery fair held in Boston in 1840.  The quilt was constructed of blue and white cotton squares approximately four by four inches.  The white blocks have statements inked onto the cloth.  One statement is, “Sleep, baby, sleep, and angels watch thy rest.  No dream of ill molest thee.”   Nothing like our protest banners made from paper today. 

Thank goodness these people had the courage to march and call attention to the changes that needed to be made. It seems to be a continuing need for acceptance here in the US. May we use their strength to teach and behave with tolerance.

Label recording the quilt history and donation to the Hingham Historical Society

A peek inside Hingham Historical Society period clothes closet

The Hingham Historical Society holds a vast collection of period clothing.  I was given permission to visit the climate controlled “closet”.   Many of the pieces hanging in the closet were form the 1800’s.  Wow, I was a kid in a candy shop!  Yes, loud squeals of delight escaped my mouth.  Having reenacted in a Civil War Artillery Battery over the last five years, I was even more excited.  (Yes, you got that right, I dress in reproduction clothing and live in a reproduction tent on several summer weekends to reenact a Civil War encampment.)    

The first piece I pulled after getting lost in the closet for a good hour was a mourning skirt.  Black silk with ribbon embellishments.  Hand stitching galore!!!  It was well in tact with a petty coat attached.  Two rows of ribbon delicately folded to create an intricate embellishment with a time taking scallop edge that had a tape sewn across the bottom.  To die for.  I think I may have tried to try it on, but I kept my self in check and drooled at all the hand stitching and imagined the history and “fly on the wall” moments this garment witnessed.

The second garment was a cape dated 1815.  Some one took great care with this possession.  Hand quilted with embellishments everywhere.  Hand shirred ribbon and a tassel closer that made a statement.    I could envision myself in a horse and buggy going to church services and having this cape to keep me warm and fashionable.

Cape

Another rare find was a pair of black satin shoes.  The owners name was inked on the inside.  Helen C. Lough, 1860.  A small heal with approximately fourteen button holes to lace through.  The button holes were finished by hand tacking.  They are a work of art in themselves.  Imagine the patience needed to lace up those shoes.  Arch support was unheard of and the shoes are very narrow.  Centuries of dealing with pain to be fashionable.  Although a shoe factory did exist in Hingham, it is not known if the shoes come from the local factory, but their owner was a Hingham resident.    

Also, part of the collection is a Civil War coat sack coat worn by Hingham resident Luring Hersey Cushing.  It features a wool lining and period buttons.  Luring came back from the Civil War and made toys for children that are also on exhibit in the galleries.

Sack coat detail

Toys made by Luring

More news of goodies I saw in Hngham next week!

Historical Society building, Hingham, MA

Behind the Scenes at the Hingham Historical Society

Have you ever wanted to play in a closet with items from the 1800’s????  Well I did just that!  Where you ask?  I traveled to the Hingham Historical Society in Hingham, MA for my adventure. 

Michael Achille, the Collections Manager and Registrar for the society was generous and allowed me into the newly built addition that now stores all the textiles the society has acquired.

The collection focuses on Hingham and historical pieces that have a provenance from Hingham.  The collection began in 1950 and the society acquired most of the textiles up until 1970.  Most numerous in the collection are quilts that are kept in dark storage.  (Sounds like you need a key and a special password to enter the dark storage area!)  The dark storage also contains historical documents and some artifacts.  Many of the society’s possessions are donations.  Some come from families that have ancestors from Hingham, other items come from people that are renovating a home and open up a wall to find things hidden behind it.  Now that would be something!

A walk through the dark storage brought me closer to people like Sarah Lincoln and Dorothy Quincy Hancock.  Amazing!  I encourage you to take time to visit the Hingham Historical Society.  The staff has a vast knowledge of the collection and love to tell the stories behind the items they exhibit. 

I think the picture says it all!

I will be writing about my finds in the next few blog posts.  Stay tuned!

Historical Society building

Ballet shoe from the 1800’s